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- I |
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Chapter
2
Structuring the General Equation for Yarn Tenacity |
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The Quest of The General
Equation |
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Many years ago Peirce
(1) suggested the procedure that would help
obtain a model that is free from the flaws
that Morton (4) cautioned against: one should
derive algebraic expressions that will help
trace the well-known twist-tenacity curves
of yarns, similar to the ones in Figure
I-2-1. In doing this one should ensure the
requirement that Morton insists upon: the
tenacity equation should elucidate the contribution
of fibre length and fineness to the translation
of fibre tenacity into yarn tenacity. There
is only one way in which this requirement
can be met with. In adopting Peirce’s
suggestion, one must ensure that the algebraic
expressions constructed for the purpose
satisfy some basic requirements. Firstly
the algebraic expressions should make it
explicit that it is the fibre tenacity that
manifests itself as yarn tenacity. Secondly
the expressions should subsume a set of
plausible premises regarding the contribution
of fibre-fineness and fibre-length to the
translation of fibre tenacity into yarn
tenacity. To assess the merit of the resulting
equations one should focus one’s attention
on a table of percentage errors of estimates
of all available experimental values, and
not merely be satisfied with a high correlation
co-efficient. |
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The General Equation For
Estimating Cotton Yarn CSP: The Building Blocks |
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We can identify the
building blocks to use in the construction
of the General Equation for estimating cotton
yarn tenacity by analyzing the significant
features of the phenomenon of yarn breakage
in tenacity testing. These features are:- |
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Yarn tenacity
is the manifestation of fibre tenacity. |
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Yarn tenacity
is, however, never equal to fibre
tenacity, but is only a fraction of
fibre tenacity. There are four reasons
for this. |
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The linear density of a cotton yarn
is highly variable along its length.
At the place of break, therefore, the
number of fibres will only be a fraction
of the number of fibres corresponding
to the average count of the yarn. In
other words the yarn count will be much
finer than the average at the place
of break. Yarn tenacity is, however,
reckoned on the basis of the average
yarn-count-- not on the count at the
place of break. Yarn tenacity can, therefore,
be only a fraction of cotton fibre tenacity. |
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Further, of the
fibres present at the place of break,
only a fraction may break and contribute
to yarn tenacity, while the rest may
slip. |
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The fibres at
the place of yarn break that break
themselves and contribute to yarn
tenacity, may not break at the ‘zero-gauge’,
but at some finite gauge. In this
context Lord’s concept (7) of
a yarn-element that is subject to
break in yarn testing is worth recalling.
“Where a length of yarn is stressed
the tension is not distributed uniformly
along the length of each fibre. The
yarn may be conceived as being composed
of successive elements in the form
of sections of fibre bundles. Not
only will these bundles differ in
fibre arrangement and linear density,
giving tight and loose and also thick
and thin places, but they will also
differ in their length. The length
of any given element is poorly defined,
because the elements are not separate
entities but each gradually merges
into its neighbours at either end.
Nevertheless, an average element length
may be considered to exist. Amongst
many other factors, the strength of
the yarn will depend on the bundle
strength of the elements, and in turn
on the length of the elements. From
this approach it is hardly surprising
to find that, for carded yarns, the
bundle strength measured at zero test
length provides information less useful
than measurements at 1/8-in. The increased
regularity and parallelization of
fibre arrangements in combed yarns
suggests a decrease in effective length
of yarn element, a feature which may
also occur in doubling when fibres
are brought into more intimate contact
with each other. For such material
the best test length for fibre-bundle
strength determination may be one
closer to zero than that found suitable
for the looser, carded yarns.”
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Thus according
to Lord the differences between carded
yarns on the one hand, and combed
and doubled yarns on the other, make
it preferential to use the 1/8-in.fibre-bundle
tenacity for carded yarns, and the
zero-gauge length tenacity for combed
yarns in the respective predictive
equations for yarn tenacity. There
is an important corollary to this.
The appropriate gauge-length of cotton
tenacity to use in the prediction
equations for yarn tenacity should
decrease asymptotically with increasing
levels of twist in the yarn. Now,
as the test length is decreased, cotton
fibre-bundle tenacity is known to
increase asymptotically to the zero-gauge
value. We have to incorporate this
fact in the equation for the translation
of fibre-bundle tenacity into yarn
tenacity. We can achieve this by the
use of fibre-bundle tenacity at zero-gauge
in general, and at the same time by
the inclusion in the equations of
a fraction that would give the tenacity
at the gauge-length appropriate for
the level of twist in the yarn. |
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There is a subtle
difference between the way fibres
are broken in the determination of
fibre-bundle strength and the way
fibres are broken in the determination
of tensile strength of yarn: all the
fibres in the bundle under test, without
exception, bridge the entire distance
between the two clamps; as against
this some fibres in the bundle that
breaks in yarn testing may have one
end lying within the break-zone, and
will not, therefore, share the applied
tensile load; the number of such fibres
that do not share the applied load
will, conceivably, depend on fibre-length
distribution of the cotton. This has
to be taken into account in the construction
of the equation. |
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There is one
more reason for the yarn tenacity
falling short of the fibre-bundle
tenacity. This is the obliquity of
the fibres in the twisted yarn to
the yarn-axis, which is the direction
in which tensile stress is applied
in the determination of the breaking
load. |
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We have also
provided for another important nuance
in the situation. Instruments for
yarn tenacity tests are calibrated
by an external universal method; instruments
for fire tenacity tests are calibrated
with the help of ad hoc standards,
that have no external validation. |
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Lastly, there
is the contribution of the drafting
system: two yarns from the same cotton,
and of the same count and twist, but
spun two drafting systems, may not
be of same CSP. This is because the
two yarns could differ in irregularity.
In other words, over and above the
count related contribution to irregularity,
there is also a contribution of the
drafting system. This has also to
be accounted for by the model for
yarn tenacity. |
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This analysis leads us to the following
structural equation for yarn-tenacity: |
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CS = Z x R x F(1) x F(2) x F(3) x F(4),
where, |
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CS is the yarn-tenacity in terms of the
count (NE) x strength (lbs.) product, |
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Z is the fibre-bundle tenacity at zero-gauge
(g/tex), |
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R is a numerical conversion
factor to adjust for the units in use in
expressing fibre-bundle tenacity and yarn
tenacity, as well as for differences in
testing procedures, |
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F(1) is the number
of fibres available at the place of break,
expressed as a fraction of the average number
fibres corresponding to the count of yarn, |
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F(2) is the fraction
of fibres at the place of break which break
themselves as against the remaining which
slip when yarn breaks in tensile testing, |
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F(3) is the fraction
of zero-gauge fibre-bundle tenacity available
at the gauge-length at which fibre- bundles
break when yarn breaks in tensile testing
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F(4) is the fraction
for obliquity correction for the angle made
by fibres to the direction of tensile loading
in
yarn testing. |
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We have now to formulate
the algebraic expressions for F1, F2, F3
and F4 in terms of these fibre parameters. |
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Figure I-2-i Typical
inverted parabola of T.M. – CSP plots
Karnak cotton; NE 18, 36, 72. |
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